A Collector’s Dream
The Spring Summer 2013 Collection is a dream - the fantasy of a contemporary man who desired to see, hanging together in his wardrobe, all the staples of masculine elegance with a fifties feel. And who discovered each piece in perfect, streamlined proportions, flawlessly crafted by hand with refinement and modernity, in natural fabrics exclusive to the House.
This, Berluti’s second ready-to-wear collection, confirms its vision of timeless style and luxury. It defines a new silhouette, at once modern, masculine and measured. It is a true stride forward, a new chapter in the contemporary legend of a boot-maker ever mindful of its heritage and traditions. Berluti’s savoir-faire in leathers and patinas is translated on trench-coats and safari jackets that are light and supple as a glove. All feature hand-painted seams, as well as a myriad other exceptional details, from their linings to their finishes. Other pieces with sleeves in leather or nubuck display intricate hand-woven or re-embroidered perforations inspired by the works of the Italian artist Gioppe Di Bella, who tied up the chassis canvas to create graphic raised patterns on his paintings.
This openwork technique is reinterpreted on “giacca camicia” in piqué jersey, on pullovers and buttonless polo shirts in two-tone jacquard or handpainted knit, and naturally on shoes in textured leather or canvas that is patinated or woven with horsehair… Every garment, every accessory in this new Berluti collection is the result of an array of skills and techniques exclusively developed with specialized artisans. Fabrics, woven by hand from botanical fibres, show natural irregularities that add to their appeal. Knitwear incorporates innovative stitches. Fifties-inspired motifs and prints are drawn in pencil. Two new supple, comfortable shoulder constructions, perfected by expert tailors, allow jackets to look more or less casual. Noble Japanese denim is cut and crafted with all the care of couture. All the cotton linings, with pleats, leather piping or barring stitches, are the work of meticulous seamstresses. Lastly, a clutch-carry briefcase in supple canvas-style leather, as well as business and travel bags in masculine shapes and sizes, unveil new House patinas with a discreet matte finish that makes a distinct difference.
The uniqueness of Berluti ready-to-wear is encapsulated in a certain je ne sais quoi that infuses each classic with a truly contemporary feel. Every silhouette, every cut displays the uncompromising modernity of measured proportions and subtly exquisite details. Shoes, evidently, are perfectly in step. Lines have been slightly lengthened for ankle boots and loafers, including the Leonard loafer with or without fringes, constructed on a sturdily welted sole that anchors the silhouette. Also reinterpreted once more, the legendary Andy loafer. On a finer base, the Valerio two-tone moccasin has a rounded toe, while the Lorenzo is crafted entirely in nubuck, known as sueded cashmere. From botanical cotton gabardine, called toile de Genève, to hempen cloth, through Japanese denim, herringbone linen, shantung and dupion blending silk and mohair, bamboo or cotton and cashmere hand knits… the fabrics are the essence of natural luxury. Last but not least, there is the colour palette – indigo, rust, petrol, rhubarb, sand, coffee and asphalt – that nods to Berluti’s celebrated patinas.
“The Timeless Beauty and the sophisticated Hand Manipulation are the ethos behind our Summer Collector’s Dream.” Alessandro Sartori
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