VIONNET PRE FALL 2013

Pre-Fall 2013, Vionnet presents a collection that exalts its heritage while continuing to advance into a fresh and modern creative arena. The signatures of Madame Vionnet -- square cuts of fabric, bias constructions and draping -- are all present today, yet vividly re-imagined with a contemporary eye. The artist Louise Bourgeois and her intriguing work with textiles, inform not only the distinctive color palette but also the unique patterns found pulsing throughout.

Black and white root the collection, creating a two-tone game on fronts and backs of dresses that reinforces the art deco undercurrent. Shots of color, from emerald green, sapphire and citrine to a dark ruby or pale sea foam, create a vivid canvas and contrast for the neutral base.

The shapes are all classically Vionnet, both in their simplicity and originality, but have been updated with sharp tailoring. Masculine, constructed shoulders, for example, play off the femininity of fluid draping. Square panels of fabric are newly layered to create modern asymmetry on short cocktail dresses and long gowns. Jersey dresses with scarf hems and bias draping can be worn in straight column cascades or belted to emphasize the waist. Tunic dresses, a house signature, have been reinterpreted with asymmetrical shoulders and hems and can be worn with trousers, skirts or on their own as short dresses.

The luxuriousness of the collection is underscored by the use of exceptionally rich materials. Couture quality duchesse satin, cady and sable’ crepes run throughout and are interspersed with double bonded and technical treatments that give a modern edge to classic fabrics. The art deco influence is seen in micro metal platinum and gold embroideries, geometric trims, and bow ties, while an extensive collection of luxurious furs add another layer of lavish high quality.

Accessories, increasingly important, help develop a new vocabulary for the brand. Inspired by house traditions, shoes and bags exhibit subtle bias or diagonal constructions. A hidden heel flat, for example, is crafted from two tone asymmetrical crocodile and satin, while slouchy suede and leather blocked boots have a zip off top panel. The new signature Vionnet heel features an angular metal construction and is inserted into a satin or leather base. Handbags, another growing realm, are delineated by the new key motif metal hardware on folded clutches, suede and leather totes, and over the shoulder bags.