MARNI MEN'S SS 2013 COLLECTION

An idea of reduction, with a sense of graphic multiplication: clothes edited to their essential form, rhythmic prints creating orderly patterns over surfaces. Classicism as twisted as it is controlled. The Marni Men Collection for S/S 13 is an exploration of lines, intended both as precise cuts and classic visual elements: the neatness of the design matches the precision of the patters, yet the effect is slightly off-kilter. A sense of tension, hints of contradiction create subtle ruptures in a modular wardrobe that is like a compact system of elements.

The silhouette is straight, volumes are restricted. The masculine wardrobe is streamlined to the essential: outerwear, shirts, suits, tees. An idea of functionality recurs. Cropped parkas and neat overcoats are closed with snap buttons; shirt-jackets worn over matching trousers hint at work uniforms. Repeating patterns in different colors highlight the sum of parts on each garment, or entire outfits: geometric motifs swarm all over precise suits worn with shirt and tie; knit cardigans sport shirt sleeves; contrast stripes give shirts and shorts a constructivist feel. Short sleeved shirts are neatly worn with ties. Sweatshirts paired with bermuda shorts and zip-up blousons with contrast pockets have an air of precise nonchalance.

Prints are orderly: lines and dots motifs, geometric structures, flower leaves create repetitions that are visually rhythmic. The palette is classic, with subtle ruptures: hints of deep blue, camel, black, red, ochre and then pastel shades of light blue and red. Fabrics are compact and pleasant to the touch: cotton poplin, bonded crispy cotton, double jersey, technical poplin.

Accessories include sturdy lace-ups with a commando soles, sandals with loafer fringes, two-tone zippered iPad cases, canvas totes with leather handles. Prints matching bags and outfits further extend the visual play.