For her summer 2013 pre-collection, Mathilde Castello Branco invites us to a sizzling poolside cocktail party where sensual creatures play a game of hot and cold. Like a sun-baked body or a frozen glass, fabrics opt for the wet look: lamé jersey, iridescent chiffon and organza, white leather, liquid knits and lurex. Embroidery imitates ice crystallising on material. To refresh herself, the Azzaro vestal opts for the bracing freshness of a palette that mixes absinthe, curacao blue, brandy, whisky, pina colada and cherry. Her lips leave a chrome silver imprint on chiffon like a kiss.
The heady aspect of the collection comes from the silhouettes, in which skin and transparency flirt with feminine and sensual shapes. A dress with a veiled "heart" opens around a diamanté ring reminiscent of Loris Azzaro's famous dresses. Likewise, the asymmetric little black dresses edged with the black fishnet previously worked by the designer. White leather appears as a tuxedo coat, jumpsuit and a dress with a deep V-neck. Dresses are long, languorous embroidered sheaths or full-skirted shiny versions in jersey or lamé. A long voile coat plays fluid against the sparkle of stretch sequins. Veiled backs and diamanté studs are reminders of the new house codes.
In a quirky homage to this strong yet fragile woman, Mathilde Castello Branco has imagined "ice pick" heels worthy of a cocktail killer, to be swapped for more nonchalant flat sandals when the occasion requires it. Jewels and clutch bags appear frozen in ice thanks to a technique of moulded and embroidered metal. Crystals and drops of ice also refresh satin bags with their built-in chain. This pre-collection is like a cool dive into the summer’s fantasy.
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