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Thursday, 27 January 2011
CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2011
Surrounded by a decor with hues of grey and light pink, the legendary Coromandel screens give structure to the room. The baroque arch, a reproduction of what was once displayed in the 1930s apartment at 31 rue Cambon, stands theatrically in a mirror version. What a surprise when it finally reveals the replica of the mythical staircase at rue Cambon…Under an elegant and watercolour influence, lightness, radiance and freshness set the tone for the season.
In the footsteps of the black and white suits and dresses with the embroidered motif, a wash of pink takes its place in the collection: fresh pink, tender pink and raw pink are complemented by soft greys and ivories, with highlights of silver. The pink instils a mood of grace, poise and elegance. Its subtlety and sophistication reinforce a fresh, urban character, with a hint of mystery.
The silhouette is one of clean lines, close to the body, before blending into gentle, freer forms, subtly relaxed at the back.
The cut on the shoulders is rounded, seamless and ultra pure, with relaxed necklines, highlighted with little youthful sleeves, either contrasted or with bavolet effects.
Predominantly cut from light, extensively developed tweeds, the coats, jackets and dress coats are accompanied by slim leg jeans in denim or sparkling with sequins. Buttons and belts constitute the accessories.
The grace of the long dresses and narrow tapered or straight knee-length skirts, is also present in the clean lines of the chiffon, tulle and organza tops embroidered with sequins, crystals, flowers and pearls. Sophisticated tiering and drape characterise the skirts, captivating with exquisite transparency and culminating in whispers of tulle, delicately cut in an impressionist style with low waists which glide over the hips. Karl Lagerfeld adds poetic elegance with slim leg trousers in chiffon, which have been embroidered or covered in sequins in their entirety: a quintessential rock-chic signature. Worn round the neck is a black satin ribbon, placed high up to dramatise the face. Footwear comprises ballerina flats in satin or patent with a pointed toe and ballerina ankle boots. “Fragile Rock” is the interpretation from the master-designer, who has chosen to open and close the ball with the very distinguished Stella Tennant and Kristen McMenamy, the model known for her superbly structured face.
Under the spell are those loyal to the fashion house: Anna Mouglalis, Vanessa Paradis, Gaspard Ulliel, Elodie Bouchez, Lou Doillon, Kirsten Dunst, Janelle Monae, Dani, Bambou…Pedro Almodovar.
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