Monday 2 July 2012

MARNI RESORT 2012-2013 COLLECTION

A sense of risk with the taste for sophisticated restraint. The Marni Resort collection is spirited and personal. Constructions are graphic, with curved volumes defining an archetypal feminine line. Cropped lengths and abstract details taken from the Western repertoire insert an element of dissonance. The result is graceful, yet full of modernist tension.

The silhouette is neat and crisp: it flares firmly from a nipped waist to end below the knee, or flows fluently. Rounded skirts are paired with straight blousons and overcoats closed with snap buttons, flat golden studs outlining the collar. Loose trousers worn with mannish shirts have an air of slouchy sophistication. Raffia in used to create three dimensional embroideries; shirt & skirt ensembles swarm in matching or mixed prints. Sight and touch are simultaneously stimulated with studs, pipings and intense textures.

The color palette is individual: tones of midnight blue, tobacco, rust, ochre are interspersed with nuances of dusty pink, light blue, pale grey, watery yellow. Prints are rhythmic, merging geometries, organic forms and blooming flowers. Firm and precious, fabrics have a compact hand: cotton poplin, faille, silk twill, technical taffetas.

Accessories alternate matte and shiny. They include low or high-heel sandals with oversized slip-on fronts, patent pump loafers with matte details and a stack heel, silver sandals. Bags are neat and geometric: precise shoulder bags with a short strap, rectangular styles with a small handle and studded details, flat clutches to hold iPad and other necessities, totes, oversized coin purses and rounded satchels with studded straps.

Bijoux are: leather pendants with cabochons and gold studs used to close shirts, necklaces with stylized flower pendants encrusted with stones. Enamel bangles add lightness. Elastic waistbands are closed with enamel buckles inspired by sheriff's broaches. Glasses are big visors, either geometric with a subtle metal rim or almond shaped and futuristic in layered acetate.



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