Sunday, 28 February 2016

Marni Women's Fall Winter 2016/2017 #MFW

Out of scale. The new Marni collection plays with perceptions and proportions, creating its own grammar from a gentle distortion of familiar elements. The expression is firm yet emotional. Romanticism gets sliced, tweaked, reconfigured. Sport is a hint. Embellishment recurs.

The decisive silhouette is highlighted by the rounded, sculptural sleeves that can be fastened with big buttons, by the crinkled ribbons that close on the back creating a billowing sense of unravel. Folding, knotting, fastening lands a processual quality. Roundness is pervasive. Curved cuts define lines that barely touch the body while following its shape. Trousers have a precise, rounded profile.

The tension of different elements is solved with ease and spontaneity. Solemn capes and strict coats alternate with short, decorative dresses. Stirrup trousers, intarsia jumpers and compact knit tops add dynamism. Technical faille dresses embroidered with big sequins have an eerie preciousness.
Fur: a mink mini-cape, a contrast mink collar.

The eyes are constantly stimulated by the way pattern and volumes interact. Classic motifs are blown-up, getting abstract: marker swirls as feminine camouflage, outsized gingham grids, faded lozenges, colorful geometries, Parshke flowers. Bright embroideries on mannish wools add further layers to the play of visual textures.

Materials of different weight and identical pattern are mixed in the same pieces, creating a subtle counterpoint of densities. Fabrics are compact and firm, or fluid and light: ripstop cotton, bonded crepe, wool silk crepe. The palette is an instinctive combination of blacks, whites, reds and greys with dashes of tobacco and burgundy.

Shoes are pointy pumps and boots have sculptural heels in either metal or metal and wood. Bags play with proportions and decorations: miniaturized styles with outsized straps; compact shoulder bags with embellished chains and embroideries. The stress on roundness is sealed by jewelry pieces: various plays around the theme of the sphere and the bead, mixed in clusters with semi precious stones such as amythist, quartz, pyrite, for earrings and necklaces. Sunglasses have bold frontals with cutout layering.

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