The journey – real or imaginary – travels within solid traditions, reacquiring awareness and authenticity. It serves as a tool to sculpt the identity of the individual and to transform tradition into modernity. In this idea of continuous metamorphosis, the return home always brings with it traces of what was seen, touched, and felt, each in its own way. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli portray the future character of the Valentino man, recognizing the fluidity of contemporary masculinity. They condense ethos without pathos, using the unique savoir faire of the Maison: Couture, a lifestyle and intrinsic value, is never flaunted but is always evident to those who recognize and embrace it. Couture is as unique as each person who is one of a kind.
The collection Fall/Winter 2014-15 is full of movement and shifts focus by easily and effortlessly combining pieces. Private becomes public and vice versa: pyjamas suits are made of classic fabrics with traditional patterns, and coats resemble heavy robes. Styles are modified by changing materials and purposes: five-pocket denims are custom-made and become the unexpected culmination of bespoke tailoring. Haute Couture coats are handmade in the ateliers of Piazza Mignanelli. A cashmere T-shirt worn with matching trousers replaces the suit, re-interpreting the rules but not the sartorial finesse. A shirt is combined with trousers to create a jumpsuit of irreprehensible aplomb. An sense of relaxation reigns: volumes are softer with oversized double wool coats and in unlined gently fitted suits. Patchwork and intarsia are tactile and visually stunning: stripes adorn the double-breasted coat, camouflage intarsia is created on double cashmere, and geometric motifs decorate shearling coats, pea coats, and hunting jackets. The mix finds its new balance in wool coats embroidered like rugs, and in the continuous blend of sartorial workmanship and technology such as heat-bonded tailoring.
Naturalness is the defining character and balance is an evident condition. The choice of fabrics and colors creates the rigorous framework for these subtle changes. Materials are classic: Harris tweed, herringbone tweed, and camel’s hair but they are also crisp to the touch. Colors are masculine: blue, indigo blue, gray, camel, and felt. White sneakers with colorful stripes and combat boots with thick tread soles get the message across: “Come as you are”.
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