Madame Vionnet’s imprint is felt immediately in key house codes that are revisited for a modern woman. Feminine draping, square cuts of fabric and bias constructions are all house signatures that are re-worked with a newly calibrated versatility. Though they feature the impeccable workmanship and precious fabrics reserved for haute couture, the pieces have been conceived as flexible separates that can be mixed and matched at will and whim.
The result is a newfound freedom in luxury eveningwear. A gazar cape, for example, can be worn over the shoulders of a crepe de chine gown, around the waist as a gown train, or on its own as a tie front dress. Detachable crepe de chine pleated skirts can be worn on their own or under dresses to add a dramatic formality. Cady skirts can be worn front or back, depending on the desired look.
The simple, clean silhouettes underscore the new ease for evening and allow for shapes that flatter the female form. Kimono sleeved tops, draped asymmetrical dresses, and wave front skirts all possess a fluid quality that allows that clothes to come alive on the body.
Each look is an individual work of art. Laser cut silk diamonds have been embroidered onto tulle for a luxe fish scale effect. A caged metallic laser cut leather kaftan has the flexibility of netting. Tufts of threaded embroidery create floral patterns on the front of crepe de chine gowns, while signature Vionnet stripes, ribbons and bows are recreated as embroideries or tromp l’oeil motifs.
The demi-couture collection, priced between ready-to-wear and haute couture, will be offered in Vionnet’s flagship store in Milan, as well as in one exclusive retailer selected per market. Color exclusivities are limited by city and customers will receive a made to measure garment in eight weeks time.
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