Innocence is put out of context in the Marni collection for S/S 12, creating a tension between instinct and control. The execution is graphic, the tone twisted. Pure, architectural shapes - top and skirt combinations, compact little jackets, pinafores - are contradicted by the unexpectedness of lengths, proportions and textures, suggesting a slightly-off take on demure and ladylike. The discourse is multisensorial: either printed, intensely embroidered or characterized by intricate intarsia motifs, items are visually rich just as much as they are stimulating, or even challenging, to the touch. The result is dreamy, with an electric, acidic frisson.
Waist nipped and a pervasive A-line, the silhouette is neat and graphic, with a sense of addition. Lean organza underskirts are worn with to-the-knee flaring skirts, suggesting both carelessness and precision. Shirt collars, worn on their own with round-neck tops or exact sheath dresses, turn into decorative elements, loosing their functional purpose but not a bit of their strictness. Embroidered crochet raffia skirts are paired with jacquard knits, just a like a pretty sweater girl would do. Shapely jackets make an insouciant but dreamy pair with tailored shorts.
Embroideries mix plastic and sequins, raffia and crystals, flowers and geometric elements in inventive, unconventional combinations that draw dense three-dimensional patterns on sculptural pieces. Intarsia motifs on leather look like prints, and have the same lightness. Sight and touch are simultaneously, constantly stimulated.
The palette is innocent and bright, with organic undertones: notes of aqua, pink, yellow are interspersed with flashes of white, brown and rust. Prints are either graphic or naturalistic: b/w stripes, Bauhaus and circle motifs and then glass prints and summer patterns. Carrying on of the visual/tactile play, crochet motifs are photoprinted on dresses, decepting perceptions. Fabrics have a firm, compact hand that highlights the neat geometry of the shapes: double or crispy cotton, organza, bonded fil coupe, cotton faille.
Accessories include ankle-strap pumps with gilded python stack heels, sandals with streamlined wooden heels, contrast heel pumps or pumps with brogue motifs on the toe and heel. Bags with precise shapes are characterized by tactile woven motifs: strips of leather are braided together, or with silk cords, to create windowpane patterns; bugle beads to add light. In tone with the intensely decorative, if strict, spirit of the collection, earrings are big, with concentric, multicolor shapes, golden or plexiglass circular pendants and stylized petals. Deco inspired resin bracelets are piled on the arm to create graphic armbands. Narrow temples convey lightness to the big round glasses in transparent acetate, while glasses with elongated shapes feature contrasting colors.
No comments:
Post a Comment