Indulgent, decadent, hedonistic: freedom and a taste for the surreal. Louche,
dreamy atmospheres woven with masculine strictness. The Marni Evening
collection conveys a sense of luxurious lightness and instinctive sophistication.
Charged with free-spirited nonchalance, outfits are cut-ups of contrasting
elements oozing weightless, graphic purity.
The silhouette, elongated and liquid, either bares the legs or touches the floor.
The long chiffon dress is worn under a taffetas parka, matching prints
highlighting different textures. Over the shoulders of the mannish suit sits, in a
spontaneous gesture of surrealist misplacement, the fox and feathers stole. Sport
nods such as technical ribbon belts tied around the waist recur. Tunics are sliced
on the bias, doubled and layered to create slivers of contrasting colors. Handmade
embroideries draw dazzling gardens over neoprene tops and dresses. Bonded
raffia defines sculptural shapes, mink is inlaid with strips of Shansi, and a layered
ballerina underskirt is worn over a long skirt cut to the hip. The overall effect is
extreme yet restrained.
The color palette is nocturnal: tones of charcoal, black, midnight blue and deep
green are sliced by touches of cream and tobacco and unexpected dashes of red.
Fabrics are consistent to the touch or impalpable and airy: bonded raffia, silk
taffetas, georgette, double chiffon, cady. Mink and persian lamb add texture.
Prints draw exotic blooms on nightly backgrounds: Mokara orchids,
moonflowers, kapfu plants.
The wildly sophisticated aura continues in the accessories: cut-out leather flowers
bloom on flat sandals or on the back of stack-heeled shoes, gold orchids decorate
high-heel suede open-toes and thin golden strips close stiletto versions. Small
clutches and shoulder bags swarm in precious ton-sur-ton embroideries.
Marni's iconic Trunk is presented in black python with a technical ribbon
strap. Bijou alternate modernist geometries with decadent flowers used for
earrings, wristbands and broaches.
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