Tim Labenda AW13 "Nachtwandler"

“NACHTWANDLER“
Menswear designer Tim Labenda’s exciting new collection, “Nachtwandler” (“sleepwalker”), is inspired by the contrast between the frenetic energy of urban living and the search for solitude, stillness and tranquillity in the context of the metropolitan jungle.

The variety of fabrics and prints used in this collection expresses the conflicting longings of modern man – to be both comforted and empowered. Knitwear, mohair and shearling linings soothe the restless soul within, while shiny rubber pieces and sharply-cut cottons or wool blends suggest a confident and outgoing man who is at ease in the city.

Shapes move seamlessly from casual comfort into sleek and smooth. In the collection that celebrates New York: ‘the city that never sleeps’, night wear elements drift into day wear, casual wear dresses up for the office, and a tailored jacket conceals a soft textured lining – all are one, combining textures chosen for comfort and relaxation with those for masculine sleekness and sophistication.

Design details, from the contrasting blue and orange colour palette through to the innovative use of abstract print, worked on with Florian Häsler, all take their cue from the old-meets- new character of New York and its unique cultural overlay of faded grandeur with austere minimalism. Surprise materials, such as a distinctive rubber yarn, somehow fuse the old with the new: traditional knitwear techniques using a modern material.

Blues, from vibrant cyan to midnight, are contrasted with brilliant orange and rust, reflecting the city as it moves from daytime into night. The darkening sky and urban shadows come through in shades of blue to black, punctuated with the orange flashes of city lights and the rust of New York’s decaying landmarks.

Inspired by this season’s emerging fascination with print, Tim Labenda allows the abstract impressions of the city to make their mark graphically. The windows, lights and pace of the modern city flash yellow and orange onto dark shirts and suits, while bleach/dye techniques on denim are inspired by reflections in the city’s glass.

Subtle pieces of silver in the form of chunky, masculine bracelets and rings, made in collaboration with talented jewellery designer Arne Soltau, also make an appearance in the collection. These pieces ooze with not only masculinity, but also classic stylishness that has been stripped back to its original, simple form with a contemporary twist.