Inspired by London’s elegance, the forceful style of the Autumn Winter 2012 collection reflects Canali’s increasingly cosmopolitan spirit.
It is a collection that pays tribute to the City, past and present, in which originality, humour and minute attention to detail are skilfully melded with the brand’s typical values of traditional tailoring, quality and fine fabrics.
But the new offering has no intention of being constrained by a rigidly didactic concept of English style and takes its cue from London’s eclecticism, reinterpreting the different styles of elegance expressed by the Dandy, Swinging London and New Romantic movements from a contemporary, ironic point of view.
Textures and fabrics have been redesigned: Prince of Wales, houndstooth and cover twill are more substantial and accentuated, pinstripes are wider and 1970s Op Art patterns and floral prints breathe life not only into the ties, but also the shirts and trousers.
Slim-fitting, shortish jackets with thinner lapels, featuring barely hinted shoulders or deconstructed designs like the Kei jacket, are the protagonists of a collection which gives plenty of space to separates, often worn with a waistcoat.
Alongside the cigarette-leg trousers with turn-ups favoured by more formal suits, in plain or tone-on-tone micro-patterned fabrics, Canali also proposes a model with a small waist pleat and a looser fit.
The single or double-breasted overcoats have velvet collars and back-belts and some are embellished by important marmot or cropped mink fur collars.
The typical blues and greys of the menswear tradition are combined and revisited: grey, commonly used as a background colour, is juxtaposed with camel, bright red and burgundy, while blue forgets the powdery shades of last winter and prefers deep, bright tones, often mixed with greens.
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