CHANEL METIERS D’ART COLLECTION - PARIS – BYZANCE

For several years now, CHANEL has taken some specialist craftsmen under its wing, protecting and perpetuating their know-how. These include the ateliers of Desrues the costume jeweller, Lemarié the feather specialist, Lesage the embroiderer, Massaro the shoe-maker, Michel the milliner, Goossens the goldsmith and Guillet the floral accessory specialist.


Back in 2002, Karl Lagerfeld dedicated an annual collection to them, whilst also celebrating a city that is part of the House's history. This year, for the ninth occasion, he brings us the "Paris Byzance" collection, to coincide with the opening of a second CHANEL boutique in Istanbul.





In a decor worthy of an Ottoman Palace, Karl Lagerfeld revisits the bold colours and the antique golds of bygone icons, with midnight and mineral blues, and deep purples, violets and greens. Favouring refined, rounded shapes that flow and drape, he has reinterpreted tunics and togas in a contemporary, very feminine style. Asymmetrical drapings, with loose panels at the front and back, outline a shifting silhouette. The Byzantine signature is clearly stated in tweeds interwoven with gold, satin, leather, velvet, cashmere, chiffon, lace and tulle. It influences the tablions, the braids and the embroidery. The buttons are jewelled stones, while the arabesque or palmette appliqués are trimmed with gold. The weave is coarse yet sophisticated - dazzling like a mosaic.
 
 

 
 
Byzance and its splendour abound; the belts and jewellery are adorned with square glass beads, filigree gilt metal, enamelling and beads, for a modern-day, entrancing and seductive Theodora. The collection also relates back to Mademoiselle Chanel who took Byzantine art as her major inspiration when she launched her first line of costume jewellery in the 1920s.




Legs are clad in long socks featuring geometrical designs and sheen. On the feet, sandals become jewels thanks to mosaic bracelets and arabesque cut-outs. Thigh-high boots are sprinkled with richly coloured glass beading, ballet pumps are tipped with gold filigree and discreet gold embellishes pony skin and crocodile leather.



The traditional bags and the minaudières are also adorned with Byzantine splendour, with gold running through burnt-out tweed, embedded precious stones, buttons and embellished braids as appliqués.

Karl Lagerfeld explains, “Inspiration is not a copy but a starting point, taking us somewhere new."




For More Coverage of the showplease visit http://www.chanel.com/