Saturday 22 June 2013

LES HOMMES ss 14 MENSWEAR #MILAN

For Spring Summer 2014 Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch present their personal definition of menswear. Different components merge into a controlled and organic vision. Refined aesthetics of clear masculine taste introduce T-shirts and bomber jackets borrowed from street wear, making them essential elements of formal attire. 

The cutting edge uniform of Les Hommes focuses on the suit reworking it into new interpretations. Bold yet understated highlights as the two-color double collar, the leather insert interrupting the continuity of a jacket or the satin trim of the lapels. A renewal of the confrontation with classic tailoring, delivering a vision that never betrays the codes of the finest menswear.

Accurate observation of different optical phenomena is the source of inspiration of the duo for this collection. The reflection of light through framework of windows is captured in the inlaid design of a jacket.  The contrast of light and darker lilium flowers printed on fabric recalls the game of shadows accidentally glimpsed on a wall. The use of both sides of the fabrics evokes the atmosphere of a photographic darkroom.
Perspective transforms every piece exalting the slender outline of the silhouette from afar or unveiling a studied alternation of different materials when observed closely; wool, leather, satin, organza. A game of contrasting shapes and consistencies suggesting a precise reference to lyricism.

Compositions of László Moholy-Nagy come to mind; experiments placed between photography and constructive typography. Or the Bauhaus approach where intuition develops into an object of design. Lilies, leitmotiv of the Season, add a nostalgic mood whereof blatant romanticism is deadened by the discipline at the base of the whole collection. In the details as well as in the ensemble, in the slightly curved shape of the shoulder as well as in the architectural structure of suits and jackets paired with shorts.

Colours are basic: black, navy, white, red and light blue. A linear simplicity bestowing strength and defining pure elegance. Accessories include classic lace up shoes where the navy toecap vaguely contrasts the black leather, sandals with suede straps and sporty soles. A leather bag with retractable handles offers different functions for every occasion following the inclinations of a man researching for an exclusive quality of tailoring. Innovative and pure agli short.



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