Maison Martin Margiela - Autumn Winter 2013 Menswear

Typical men’s clothing closes asymmetrically with buttons meeting off-centre, thus contracting the silhouette, wrapping the torso within its clothing. Face on, trompe-l’oeil jumpsuits create the illusion a classic two-piece suit, yet are streamline from one side.

Internal shoulder constructions round the front of the garment, bringing it forward, producing an open, A-line silhouette, as though one’s body is leaning. The coats and jackets in wool gabardine close using only one button.

Collars are revisited, with multiple folds on shirts, while hardening on jackets.
Subtle attention to detail crops and tappers tailored trousers, disguises buttons. Wool is blended, while "S" shaped stitching naturally shifts items.

The classic ‘5-zip’ jacket is reinvented in reversed shearling, yet a pea coat is lined with faux shearling and worn open allowing the asymmetric closing to drape. Furs are separated and reassembled onto a duffle coat.

AN EXAGGERATED SILHOUETTE

Trousers are fused and constructed forming a large and oversized line. These extra-wide trousers become Aïkido style, paired with classic polo-necks and extended leather biker jackets.
Wool is fine-knit or heavy, with Scottish ‘Replica’ jumpers while others are crafted out of fisherman beanies. These dark, patchwork jumpers obtain near military status when dressed with leather trousers. A cowl necked tuxedo jacket is taken out of context when worn under a waistcoat also made entirely of woollen hats.

Warrior accents reappear through leather pieces of a Mad Max theme, in jackets, ponchos and laced-up trousers, realised from vintage aviator bombers and in patchworks of thrifted furs.