Penelope - Peter Jensen Pre-Fall 2015

It might not be immediately apparent that the most glamorous party in modern history inspired Peter Jensen’s collection for Pre-Fall 2015. Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball at the Plaza Hotel was a spectacularly glamorous affair. All of New York society showed up, including his famous Swans, swathed in satins, velvet and other finest finery, coiffed to the nines and disguised behind witty masks. OK, the masks are there, especially Candice Bergen’s bunny-ears, appearing in repeat print on shirting and crepe. But where are the ball gowns?

Of course, it’s not the Swans that appealed to Jensen. Looking through photographs of that dazzling evening, he was struck by a “coming-up beauty with big eyes and lots of hair,” wearing “the dress of the evening”. Penelope Tree was the hit of the ball – the gushing words are from Eugenia Sheppard’s write-up in the World Journal Tribune. Jensen was fascinated with the idea of the gamine 17-year-old invading this most soignée of occasions – wearing not much more than a jersey dress slit up to her ribs, and a pair of tights.
Look closely and you’ll see that Evening has infiltrated the sporty, youthful collection like a paparazzo sneaking through the kitchen. Bow details crop up on shoulder-revealing sweatshirts, chef-cotton pencil skirts and tie- waist crêpe dresses. Jogging ensembles come in black or silver lurex; a cotton jacquard scintillates with shiny flowers. Tree’s dress is referenced in a cardigan slit up the side for a sexy twisted effect, and in a breezy jump-suit that starts as a bustier and ends in tomboy shorts. Even Truman’s swans are there – as a jaunty repeat print overlaid with polka dots, or scribbled over canvas by the designer himself.

Of course, this is a Jensen collection, so the 60s shapes and general whiff of perverted innocence are right at home. Ruffle-fronted shirts, schoolboy shorts, and a neat little rain mac will all please devoted fans, as will a Guernsey jumper with integrated rabbit detail. Why not throw on a matching rabbit mask? Candice Bergen would.