Academic uniform tailoring disrupted by the provocative youth of the late 70s instigated the energy of the JAY AHR Fall Winter 2013 collection.
Classic JAY AHR silhouettes at the core of the collection are structured with curved linear metallic zippers used not only as decorative but also functional elements. They contour and dissect forms, and can be manipulated to expose various degrees of skin.
“I was interested in the purity of lines and structure in uniforms. I looked essentially at classic British influences, academic or official, contrasted by the fashion revolution of the 70s by the likes of Malcolm McLaren and wanted to capture this measured disturbance of order with a touch of provocation.”
Linear zippers punctuate classic pleating on minis, while undulating ones modernize a newly introduced knee length throughout the collection, treated in wools or graphic black and white raw leather mixed with meticulously slashed and torn knitwear and shaggy faux furs.
Controlled pleats yield to swaying fringes, unleashing seductive feminine silhouettes, voluntarily alluding to Riss’ passion for curves and movement.
The houses’ signature trompe l’œil dress appears throughout the collection and namely in a raw denim, a first at JAY AHR, or with pleated mat faux leather for a youthful nonchalant attitude.
Completing the silhouettes, outerwear has a real presence in the collection. Coats and jackets are kept in generous volumes with oversized sailor collars, and loose round shoulders kept either minimal or exploding with sparks of black and white faux fur.
