Sunday, 25 January 2015

SANDRO HOMME FALL/WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR - PARIS

the Sandro Homme Fall-Winter 2015/2016 collection presented  in the Palais de Tokyo at Paris Fashion Week.

Ilan Chetrite, Creative Director of Sandro Homme, set the scene for the new collection against a fragment of wall which could have been lifted straight from a Parisian street. Free, profoundly urban and exuding an air of nonchalance, the Sandro man has a distinct approach to elegance. He knows how to use proportion to striking effect and draws on references, adapting them in his everyday life. And if this man is a non conformist, he can proudly claim a style that is truly original and contemporary.
Flyers of punk groups introduce a strong visual element to this collection. The iconographic images, stitched with white thread, are positioned on both sides of the pieces. Khaki, military-inspired parkas over fitted black suits, carcoats and leathers comprise the first part of the collection, while high-waisted straight leg trousers are cut short at the ankle. White socks and oversize shoes complete the concrete jungle-ready look, a tribute to the Post-Punk/New Wave transitional period.
In the second part, the leathers take the focus, with each highlighting different proportions and inspirations. The plongé lambskin biker jacket with turned-back shearling collar is set beside more structured leather work blazers - the silhouette is sombre or highly contrasted with a white turtleneck.
Paired with washed-out blue jeans, a series of drop-shoulder herringbone and flecked boiled wool coats with raglan or set-in sleeves left their mark on the last moments of the show. These comfortable overcoats are worn over masculine, honeycombed, chunky knit sweaters to complete the look. 



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