An industrial feel with a purist vibe. Utilitarian details and a sharp idea of properness. The Marni Men collection mixes precision and performance. Function creates form. Layering and folds define new shapes.
The focus is on precise lines and contrapositions of volumes: clothes are purely about shape and form. There's a lab-like feel in the way pieces are constructed and layered, the addition of parts revealed rather than hidden. A sleeveless blazer is worn as an utilitarian vest on top of a suit, or over shorts, playing with juxtaposed textures. Contrast pockets on a work jackets are made by neatly folding the fabric; a streamlined apron lands over shorts and is secured with snaps, in an off-kilter quest for utility. Double-layer shirts and light quilting are graphic in feel, with a purpose.
The compact wardrobe is suited for all conditions. It is crispy, airy, appropriate. The multi-purpose cape can be arranged in different ways depending on needs. The zip-up parka is reduced to its essence getting a longer length. Zippered bombers and leather hooded blousons have an impalpable assertiveness. Lines are sharp, leaving no room for distraction: one-button suits in utilitarian denim fabrics, buttoned-up boxy blazers with raglan sleeves, essential yet sturdy knits.
Prints are used with the defining precision of an accent: etched checks on outerwear, micro-cubes and outsized dots on shirts, screened dots like graphic marks on crisp white shirts. The color palette is pragmatic: tones of blue, white, cream, black, and then dashes of yellow and green. Fabrics are compact and light and dry to the touch: washed cotton gabardine, mélange cotton, indigo/white denim, waxed cotton/linen denim, yarn-dyed cotton, parachute cotton/linen toile, quilted cotton.
Accessories: pared down, smart, easy elasticated boots and shoes, simple and elegant sandals, backpacks with oversized pockets, multi-use portfolios.
This season Marni collaborated with illustrator and typographer Katja Schwalenberg, who created a series of layered lino-cut prints - floral elements, leaves, a playful creature - that have been screened onto white shirts and tees.
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