The Spring pre-collection finds its energy in contrasting elements. Riccardo Tisci creates silhouettes merging a modern-day Holly Hobbie layered rag doll’s look, A-line shapes and sleek masculinity.
Suits and trenches play with the feminine and the masculine. In stretch silk cady, macramé lace, waxed cotton or duchess satin, they blur both worlds. Elongated tailoring features relaxed tuxedo pants. Feminine looks reveal A-line shapes with full skirts, wide pyjama pants or ample bermuda shorts. Pencil skirts show elaborate constructions from draped ruffled fronts to graphic backs. Archive corsets are sometimes cinched with A-line zipped corset-belt-parka combos.
Back to the roots, monochrome looks come in white, black, beige, khaki and navy. They alternate with printed ones featuring placed or all-over roses, flower camouflage and Virgin Mary and child. Dry dense cotton fabrics such as gabardine, drill, poplin, piqué, twill and denim give the collection a masculine tension whilst silk jersey, chiffon, crepe de chine and light taffetas play with fluidity.
Hand-made necklaces, earrings and bracelets offer a new take on classical jewellery. These parures mix mother of pearl, onyx, brown obsidian, vintage-looking burnt or coloured crystal, ebony and rosewood. A new version of the Obsedia bag comes in flower camouflage printed nappa, burgundy lambskin or crystal-studded layered snake.
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