c o l l e c t i o n f e m m e
h i v e r 2 0 14
For this winter 2014 collection, Guillaume Henry introduces a woman who diverted a 40’s
wardrobe, with an accurate sense of shape and attributes. The gangster’s girlfriend of the pre-collection
turned into a woman of the Arts, borrowing references from Dadaism, collages and
cadavres exquis by Blumenfeld, Picabia, Oppenheim or Man Ray.
Square structured shoulders, strangled waist and various lengths layers are the core of this
collection which takes over the post war glamour silhouette and the photo booth culture, for a
Paris/New York overall feel.
This sophisticated vestiaire, embellished with collage-like details, unveil flowered rich jacquards,
leopard prints and surrealist patterns. Fabrics reflect this era’s paradox oscillating between
wealth and poverty, mixing couture touches and sports details: zips on astrakhan-like
embossed rabbit, faux and real merging furs, mink and natural wool, as well as creased fabrics.
The richness of gold and crystals punctuate the silhouette.
Serge Poliakoff’s colours enhance the palette with shades evoking the faded hues of the first
colour pictures from interwar years, juxtaposing a stormy blue, a powder pink, a dark paprika
and an electric saffron. Bold tones connect to one another through precious materials such as
lurex tweeds in granite or gold.
Bags and shoes bring together fetishist accents to anecdotal, while precious details combining
mirror shards and coloured fur touches hide at the bottom of pockets, an idea of supreme
luxury.
No comments:
Post a Comment