Carven AW 14 WOMENS #PARIS

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For this winter 2014 collection, Guillaume Henry introduces a woman who diverted a 40’s

wardrobe, with an accurate sense of shape and attributes. The gangster’s girlfriend of the pre-collection

turned into a woman of the Arts, borrowing references from Dadaism, collages and

cadavres exquis by Blumenfeld, Picabia, Oppenheim or Man Ray.

 

Square structured shoulders, strangled waist and various lengths layers are the core of this

collection which takes over the post war glamour silhouette and the photo booth culture, for a

Paris/New York overall feel.

 

This sophisticated vestiaire, embellished with collage-like details, unveil flowered rich jacquards,

leopard prints and surrealist patterns. Fabrics reflect this era’s paradox oscillating between

wealth and poverty, mixing couture touches and sports details: zips on astrakhan-like

embossed rabbit, faux and real merging furs, mink and natural wool, as well as creased fabrics.

The richness of gold and crystals punctuate the silhouette.

 

Serge Poliakoff’s colours enhance the palette with shades evoking the faded hues of the first

colour pictures from interwar years, juxtaposing a stormy blue, a powder pink, a dark paprika

and an electric saffron. Bold tones connect to one another through precious materials such as

lurex tweeds in granite or gold.

 

Bags and shoes bring together fetishist accents to anecdotal, while precious details combining

mirror shards and coloured fur touches hide at the bottom of pockets, an idea of supreme

luxury.