MARNI SS 2016 COLLECTION #MILAN

Using abstraction to question the status quo, the new Marni collection creates a distinctive visual language, made of forms, materials, colors, yet completely devoid of any identifiable reference. It builds its own code and grammar, freed from constraints and pre-set norms.

 

Clothes move, float, swing around the body with sculptural ease, their presence marked by the intense clarity of solid hues juxtaposed in offbeat ways. The apparent precariousness of the lines, with diagonals and flaps that draw dynamic tensions around the silhouette, is underpinned by the scuba body pieces worn underneath. Counterintuitively, the leather slip-dress is put over the coat. Perforated tunics add another layer of stimulation to the abstract complexity of the compositions. Allover sequins and macramé dots explore the visual power of repeated circular forms. Draped and folded with studied spontaneity, shapes have an impromptu quality: a simple stitch creates the shape of a tunic, using excess fabric to define the movement; satin is gathered on one side to mold the shape of a top. Trousers coil in fluid line; sleeves are elongated. The simple white t-shirt is maximized into a dress and worn under the densely embroidered leaf cut-out tunic.

 

The color palette exudes a vibrant energy: primary notes of blue, red, yellow mingle with deep tones of brown, blue, raw sienna, burgundy and black. White is used as a melting agent, or in the background. Fabrics have a tactile firmness: bonded satin, technical gabardine, dry wool, glass velvet. Prints further provide rhythm and visual punctuation: silhouette motifs and shadow patterns have an organic/abstract feel.

Accessories carry the mobile sculpture idea into the realm of the useful. Square-toed shoes are mounted on architectural heels; open-toe boots draw graphic lines. The new line of sunglasses have bold angular shapes. A modernist spirit characterizes the bags: soft satchels are secured to the wrist with chain bracelets; the soft belt bags have sport oversized straps; soft metallic clutches come in neat shapes. Bijoux mix metal and resin: long earrings shaped like leaves or geometric figures, sculptural pendants, angular bracelets stacked on the arms.