MARCO DE VINCENZO - Spring | Summer 2014 Collection

MULTIFUNCTIONAL

 

A multi-sensorial approach to fashion-making: clothes that call for visual as well as tactile processing. Matter is the main interest and the driving principle of Marco De Vincenzo's aesthetic research. Natural, man-made, organic, inorganic, precious, industrial, synthetic, he keeps altering, morphing, cutting, slicing, pleating, perforating, manipulating fabric in order to create a distinctive language. Like an alchemist, he never takes a fabric as it is: he permanently alters structure, letting something happen all-over the surface and defining forms as a result.

Rather than collections, Marco de Vincenzo creates, one season after the other, further instalments into an on-going quest around the possibilities of the matter, stretching limits and stubbornly distorting them to his own whims. Pleating fused with Sangallo motifs is the starting point of the s/s 14 collection. Kinetic ribs, lathers scorched in graphical patterns, metallic effects, 3-d applications/perforations, imperceptible dissonances and colour punctuations are the main focus this season. Pieces are distilled to the very essence: the sunray pleated skirt; the slender, feminine dress; the pencil skirt; the jumper; the bluson; the sleeveless top. Sport nods recur, if only in the functionality of a drawstring. Geometric cuts further highlight the intricate tactility of surfaces, adding another layer of retinal stimulation. The palette mixes blues, blacks, greys with flashes of gold and copper and touches of red and dusty pastels.

In the work of Marco de Vincenzo, eye is constantly entertained by kinetic effects that let surfaces breathe and move - pleating, dégradé motifs, intarsia - calling to be explored with the hands. A materialist in the true sense of the term, he lets the sheer beauty of the fabric shine through archetypal forms that retain a distinctively feminine simplicity. Nothing is as it seems, the effect slightly different from a distance or up close. De Vincenzo lets geometry engage in an optical dialogue that charges his work with a magnetic quality. One, simply, cannot stop looking and guessing, but de Vincenzo does not give the final answer, leaving interpretation open.