MARNI F/W 2013-2014 COLLECTION #MILAN

Strictness. Texture. A sparse sense of melancholia. The new Marni collection is austere, with a romantic edge. It plays with ideas of un-balanced balance: volume and flatness, severity and grace, opacity and shine. Protagonists are the precision of the lines, assertiveness of the cuts, density of the surfaces. They unfold and interact, creating an intangible narrative.

The silhouette is streamlined, to the knee or below, expressing an idea of romance with puritanical rigor. Volumes are exact and firm, flaring slightly from the waist down or falling straight. The body is both protected and offered in glimpses. Shorts bare legs under sculptural blousons; sleeveless coats and tops draw attention to the elongated delicacy of the arms. The masculine element is apparent and prevalent in the coats and jackets closed by zips as aviator attire, in the bonded leather jackets and cropped knife-pleat pants. It is lightened up by transparent slices hidden inside the folds of pleated skirts; it is softened by the femininity of corsets and soft gathers. In reverse, leather tape details on dresses add toughness. Little capes worn on long and short dresses provide grace, dryly.

Fur is used profusely, as a graphic element or a color accent: a band on a skirt or a cape, long stoles, wide collars. Otherwise, it adds another layer of intricacy to the narrative weaving of textures: beaver, alpaca and long haired shansi create an organic storm that works as tactile contradiction.

Prints are graphic yet atmospheric: branches, forests, landscapes intrigue the eye, suggesting backdrops and scenarios for other stories. The color palette is severe, with turbulent peaks: black, charcoal, deep blue, grey, touches of oily yellow and oxblood. Compact fabrics enhance the cuts: tweed, bonded velvet/leather, men's suiting wool, brushed mohair, felt, crêpe.

Pragmatic accessories put the balance further off-kilter feel: calfskin or beaver riding boots; flat sandals; flats with metallic leather toes. Bags have an adventurous edge: softly streamlined angular rucksacks with padlock closures, geometric duffels, folded bags in leather and fur or clutches in craquelè napa leather with crystal embroideries. Sunglasses conceal the eyes behind oversized round shapes with excavated details.