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Friday 21 September 2012

ETRO SS 13 #MILAN FASHION WEEK

For Spring Summer 2013, Veronica Etro presents her vision of 21st century Romanticism. Rooted in a dream-like earthly paradise, the collection delves into a female fantasy yet imparts a sense of discipline and rigorous restraint in its simplified shapes and compact materials. In clear rejection
of speedy computer-generated prints, Etro draws upon the nearly extinct art of hand-painted prints. Marrying the time-consuming techniques of Italian artists with her family’s decades-old fabric expertise, she presents a collection that is entirely comprised of hand-painted pattern. Each work of art has been expressly placed and printed on the garment for which it was designed.
PRINTS
Inspired by the richly feminine Orientalist paintings, the leitmotif of the collection are flora and fauna, conceived as a modern paisley. The hand of each artist is revealed in painterly brushstrokes that add new depth and shading to paisleys. Birds of paradise, butterflies, flamingoes and geckos cavort within
the fantasy foliage, at times mixed with graphic tie prints and Japanese vase prints. The romanticism
is cut by thick trims of sporty stripes, running horizontally, vertically or asymmetrically. The liberal use of black and white void spaces frame the prints, while coral, pink, lemon, lime and blue offer pops of color.
FABRICS
Fabrics are compact and possess a new weight. Luxurious cady stretch, thick silk sablé, stiff cottons and drappe, underscore the constructed looks and add a sporty flair. Micro crystal embroidery traces only the background space of an exotic print, leaving the painted pattern exposed.
Quilted kimonos have been painted and then embroidered. Small rows of colorful butterfly
and flowers are embroidered onto stiff cotton.
SILHOUETTES
Pared-down, clean silhouettes dilute the decorative effect of the prints. The simple shapes evoke uniforms, while constructions have an air of the East. The Judo pant-wide legged, cropped and tied at the waist- is paired with Kimono-style jackets or petal wing tops. Simplicity reigns on handkerchief tops, long wrap skirts, and dresses cut from a single square of fabric. A play with structure allows for unexpected twists: dresses with one sleeve, apron-front one piece suits, half-Sari draping
over pants and under a jacket, and gentle waves of rigid ruching along pants, tops and dress fronts.
ACCESSORIES
The accessories, set off by silver metal and hard leather, have a hand crafted feel. Natural details like hard stones or knots appear on bags, jewelry and high heeled leather sandals or flats. Chunky mirrored heels set off leather sandals, while stiff belts are in stitched cotton. The new painted florals and paisleys find their way onto folded handbags, while clutches with hard stone closures reveal surprising origami-like constructions.

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