The couture volumes of last season become sporty, oversized layers, often abbreviated at the hip. The cocooning coat becomes an oversized summer sweatshirt with dropped sleeve, cut high in the torso. Iconic menswear staples - the jean jacket, the blouson - are re-interpreted with this new silhouette.
Outfits are a play on shape, contrasting shrunken and oversized, while sportswear faces off against formality.
Athleticism is inspiration - a spirit of ease and movement. Masculine summer sports inspire leathers referencing football and cricket, luxurious re-workings of basketball shorts, and shirts cut like a baseball jersey.
Fabrics are soft and supple, luxurious silks, rayon and viscose twills. Architectural shapes are given a fluidity, structure without stiffness.
A specially-devised jacquard depicts a 'destroyed' regatta stripe, a classic menswear motif reinterpreted with a fresh eye. Poplin shirting is cut into slim-fit blazers and shorts. Even pony and leather are weightlessly constructed, linings sliced out, slender on the arm and cocooning the body.
The palette contrasts new neutral shades of khaki, pale blue, navy and sand with brilliant, iridescent shots of metallic leather, opalescent copper or black with a jade sheen.
For evening, formal and casual fuse in monochrome, cotton linen tuxedos have a structured shoulder and are layered over soft rayon tanks with a delicate lustre.
Accessories pick up on the sports inspiration, and the proportion play. Backpacks are under or oversized in pony, iridescent leather or jacquard stripe. Shoes reference slip-on sneakers and high-tops but in precious pony and nubuck, with a substantial, solid sole.
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