This season Salvatore Ferragamo presents the finest codes and traditions of masculine dressing, forming a masterfully-tailored blank canvas upon which a rich tapestry of fabrics, colours, motifs, textures and volumes is applied. The resulting collection offers a luxurious collision of worlds, expressing the intricacies and idiosyncrasies of the modern man.
A pair of Andy Warhol's paint-splattered, classic Ferragamo Oxfords heralded the starting point for Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti. The shoes mix of formality and relaxed artistry became a metaphor and mission statement for a collection that transforms the classic menswear wardrobe into a platform for character, emotion and experience.
Paradox and contradiction is key: 'perfect' matches are avoided; clashes embraced. Sharply tailored single and double-breasted suits in finest British mohair and Italian wool are presented in herringbone, houndstooth and Prince of Wales checks, providing a monochrome framing within which to showcase knitwear, silk shirts and scarves in a kaleidoscopic explosion of colour and printed patterns.
Classic mens outerwear explores further juxtapositions. Heritage and modernity, geometric and the freeform, sharpness and softness all interact to create a new sartorial language. The bomber jacket is reconfigured with a patchwork of rich shearling and ultra modern Japanese nylon, or woven in black and white trompe l'oeil Jacquard motifs; the winter Macintosh is presented in pure white; shearling coats bring layered volume to overcoats and tan leather flying jackets; indeed, duality becomes literal within a reversible cotton and mohair parka.
The precision of the paint-dripped Oxfords - presented in leather or suede, some inner-lined with coloured shearling or extended into ankle boots - is offset by the softness of canvas, suede or shearling, holdall bags, which in a wink to the utilitarian needs of the masculine wardrobe, also transforms into backpacks.
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