Today. Yesterday. Tomorrow. Different time frames that characterize the new Z Zegna FW 2013-2014 collection, a counterpoint of today’s fast-paced and digitally-connected society with outdoorsy tradition and meticulous craftsmanship borrowed from the distant past.
An artful and youthful balance for a demanding man with a nomadic soul whose agenda blurs the line between work and leisure time. Contemporary clothes for a dynamic and urban lifestyle where heritage elements bond with innovative constructions and fabrications - heat sealed garments, heat taped details, the search for three dimension. The raincoat, instead, morphs into the rain suit.
Caravaggio’s moody and intense color palette permeates a collection filled with shades of brown, from tobacco to sienna, ash gray and ebony, plus flashes of kingfisher or cadmium red matched with navy.
The exclusive fabrics are rough, tough and matte. A mismatch of layered textures anchored on felted wools, degradé effects, wool and silk blends that resemble shearling, winter cottons and jersey bonded with worsted wools, all of which ooze timeless endurance as in the best Zegna tradition. Classic patterns - stripes, argyles, checks and quilting - blown up or manipulated to become textured graphic layers for rustic outwear.
In lieu of the coat, dapper three-button blazers are layered over one another to modern effect and paired with conical pants, either flat-front or single pleat. New is the “Atelier” fit, a highlight for the new sartorial suit that features blazers with a nostalgic feel. The shoulders are deconstructed or bold and sharp, reminiscent of the Italian sartorial tradition. Sturdy and authentic garments such as wide-sleeved shirts peeking from under fitted vests nod to heraldic gestures, conveying a sense of protection.
All in all, a pragmatic and functional message that channels a sense of clarity and order in today’s fast-fashion maelstrom.
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