In their atelier Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli subtly modify archetypes and stylistic
themes from within to create the new menswear collection for Valentino. The work starts out
with defining elements: stereotypical garments that are a part of the collective culture, distilled
in our memories and use. The Creative Directors intervene upon these well-known bases with
surgical precision and subtle sedition, making imperceptible changes that alter the perspective
yet preserve the aplomb. The result is distinctive, and the balance is slightly skewed. Last but not
least, a nonchalant Roman mood shuffles the c ards on the table.
The need for a clear seasonal change is replaced by a desire to build an ideal wardrobe through
an ongoing series of gradual steps. The Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection therefore has a modernist
feel based on a search for clarity and simplicity that is a signature of the Valentino man. An
unexpected variable – distinct sensuality – comes into play. The focus is on the body and movement.
The mood is noir.
Valentino’s Couture tailoring reflects British style, but the silhouette is sleek and sensuous.
The design of the garments is graphic: heat-bonded leather bands cross smart raincoats like
architectural lines. Capes create mysterious, virile movements. Skinny trousers cover the ankle.
Meticulous yet imperceptible construction generates unexpected volume on the back of coats
and field jackets. A sense of addition prevails: layers of materials, textures, and patterns define
the garments, while leather and fur intarsia create constructed motifs on knitwear. Editing is
expressed through absolute silhouettes: pristine pea coats, sleek suits, and thick military-like
furs. Experimental thermoform tailoring molds the suit to the body. Slim coats and tailored jackets
conceal a duvet core: high-performance meets sartorial tailoring to create Sub-Zero Couture.
Fabrics with houndstooth and prince-of-wales checks, black watch tartan, as well as masculine
checks and patterns give a high-voltage jolt to sleek and simple silhouettes.
Fabrics such as dry wool, bonded cotton and plaids, and barathea are crisp. The impeccable color
palette features shades of blue, gray and black accented with notes of red, cobalt blue, green,
camel, and purple that blend in rhythmic patterns.
Accessories include derby shoes made of a combination of different materials and chelsea boots
with transparent soles. There are triple clutches with wide bands and small wallets/agendas
closed with elasticized bands.
The look is elegant, understated and sleek: the quintessence of flawless imperfection.
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