A carpet of leaves: a forest or perhaps the garden of a country manor. The asphalt jungle is distant, as are its hustle and bustle, clamor, and unrelenting distractions. The time has come to stop and pause, think, and get back in touch with nature: introspection en plein air. The wardrobe follows the willful, sophisticated Trussardi man from the city to the great outdoors, evolving along the way and becoming even more luxurious and authentic.
Designer/storyteller Umit Benan creates his own vision of the Trussardi universe by weaving together different pieces of a mosaic. Interpreting the century-old archives of the brand, he creates stories about people who represent deep-rooted values that are Italian in spirit and cosmopolitan in life. There is nothing antiquated, however: cross- contamination is the key. Contemporary style shuffles the cards and creates new balances.
For the Fall Winter 2013-14 collection, Umit Benan was inspired by Nicola Trussardi, the visionary entrepreneur who, heedless of the rules, transformed the family business into a major player on the international luxury market. Nicola was dynamic, charismatic, and adventuresome. Umit removes Nicola from the context of his professional life to give him a private moment of relaxation alone, far from everything. Travel – a topical theme of the Trussardi aesthetic and iconography – allows man to rediscover nature face to face, without intruders. The result is a celebration of individuality and independence: rugged and robust luxury, where beauty embraces high performance.
The silhouette is strong and defined by outerwear: long coats, compact raincoats with raglan sleeves, capes, anoraks, and field jackets. Umit Benan takes these sketches and reworks them with verve, composing surprising contemporary symphonies of color and fabric that always reveal the sum of the parts. Velcro tabs – a typical functional element of sportswear – are used with neoprene patches as a recurring detail on luxurious outerwear and, in a completely decontextualized way, on jackets and tailored trousers. A new language of luxury is created by morphing formal and functional elements. The hybrid concept continues in boots that are a combination hiking boot/sports shoe and are made of several materials.
Fabrics and materials such as wool, knits, bonded cotton macintosh, and fur are compact and have a sensuous, masculine feel. The autumn palette creates a pictorial mood with nuances of green, shades of red and burgundy, black, blue and splashes of mustard.
Accessories – those essential elements that represent the excellence of the Trussardi world – include hunting bags, small shoulder bags, and curried leather messenger bags with a sturdy, mature look.
The Trussardi man for next season: a vision of strong yet introspective masculinity.
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