Wednesday 4 July 2012

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear SS13

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Men’s Collection

Spring-Summer 2013

Lights and Shadows

Shades of white illuminate much of the collection.

Real or imitation, painted or printed: silver contrasts with the neutral tonalitie.

Jacket sleeves are cut, while armholes and shoulders are displaced forward to sculpt and embrace the silhouette. A topcoat, trousers and silver moccasins reflect light and meld with more classic pieces.

Exposure to light alters, dims, and partially erases Jacquard motifs and forms shadows under collars, pocket flaps and darts.

The ‘Replicas’ of the season are evening classics tailored in matt fabrics with shiny details. Once treated, the cotton becomes metallic.

Rings from aluminium cans are embroidered onto a waistcoat to create a chainmail effect.

Contrasting fabrics

Fabrics in this collection are modified and reconverted – their treatments are exclusive.

Eveningwear is reinterpreted in soft, comfortable materials. The jacket and the pea coat are recast in oversized corduroy. A waistcoat embroidered in strips of napa becomes a summer fur. Pieces in this collection are deliberately treated to appear weathered, aged, repurposed. A suit jacket’s collar is restored using surplus fabric.

Once painted, fabric crackles to mark the passage of time.

‘Artisanal’ pieces have a vintage inspiration; a collage of badges borrowed from various periods form a jacket and waistcoat. Bleached printed t-shirts are unstitched and reassembled to create a jacket, waistcoat and trousers.

Shoes: One style of espadrilles – highly supple, with transparent soles, matt or shiny, day or night, in snakeskin, satin, napa, canvas.

INDEX

Materials: oversized corduroy, treated and coated cottons, wild silks, finged lambskin, mohair, napa, satin, military viscose gabardine, vintage t-shirts.

Colours: shades of white, silver, grey, beige, khaki, faded tones.


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